Border Run 2: Chapter 3

After enjoying the waterfall hike in the morning, we left La Fortuna and drove around the east side of the cordillera (mountain range).  Gorgeous country, with steep, twisty, fun roads.  The ol' Yaris had trouble on the inclines, though.  At one point, we were chugging up the road and an oil tanker truck came barreling up behind us, wanting to pass.  Uphill, mind you.  He must have been empty, but it was still funny that the Yaris was impeding his progress!

The route we took brought us around the back side of Volcán Poás, past the La Paz Waterfall and the Peace Lodge, a high end resort associated with the private gardens that are home to the cascada.  Everything we've read says the falls and surrounding gardens are beautiful, but the entry fee of $38 per person prohibited these starving volunteer English instructors from going in!

We stopped at El Churrasco Hotel y Restaurante in Poásito for lunch.  The food was pretty damn good - I'd eat there again just for the cute little tortillas.

Creamy guacamole to start - and a lot of it!

After almuerzo, it was time to finish the days drive and reunite with the good friends we met on our last trip, Stephan and Jimmie, proprietors of the Poás Lodge.  Ahhh, the lodge.  I could just live here.  We can't say enough about this place.  Incredible views, cozy rooms, super comfortable beds and comforters.  And over-the-top hospitality.  And, yes, that says 'comforters' - it gets cold at night when you're at 8,000 feet!  The hummingbirds again put on quite a show, a constant display of aerial acrobatics, even in the gusty wind and intermittent rain.  Jimmie greeted us and showed us to our room.  Stephan was on his way back from a weekend beach getaway in Jaco with some visiting friends from Texas.  They showed up in the afternoon - we met Dave and Gina, and instantly liked them.  Especially Dave because a) his name was easy to remember and b) he brought bourbon.  

Hummingbird silhouette

In living color.

Waiting for more hummers.

That's no humming bird

On this visit to our Costa Rican home away from (our Nicaraguan) home, we had the pleasure and honor of also meeting Gertie and Don, mother and step-father of my Texas brothers.  Wonderful wonderful folks.  They were visiting Costa Rica because they are house hunting - Gertie wants to be closer to her boys; the boys want her close but not too close.  It's a tricky and delicate game, indeed.  

We were made to feel like a part of the family, which was such a great feeling.  We miss our families a lot so to be included in the familial banter, the good-natured trash talking, and the whole vibe was a ton of fun.  Spending time around Gertie made me think about my mom and how much I miss her.  Hanging with the boys helped me keep my skills honed for when I get back home to my family.  Very important, trust me.  Practice, practice, practice.

Ahhhhh, perfect.

Stephan and Jimmie had blocked out the hotel the first night, so it was just us, our hosts, David and Gina, Gertie and Don.  After another of Stephan's delicious dinners, we all relaxed by the fire, caught up on what's been happening in our respective lives and enjoyed a few drinks.  After our previous week of new territory, sights and experiences, it was nice to be in a familiar place where we could truly unwind.  Needless to say, we slept like babies that night.  That doesn't mean we woke up every two hours crying and hungry, by the way.  Quite the contrary.

We got up reasonably early the next morning, enjoyed breakfast and decided to take a shot at seeing Volcán Poás.  As you may recall we got shut out on our last visit in April due to a big storm blowing in from the Caribbean, up and over the volcano.  The weather wasn't looking perfect this morning, either.  But it's just 4k to the top so we thought we'd go check it out.  

The lady at the entrance gate said there was a 50/50 chance of us seeing anything worthwhile so we paid the fee and drove up to the visitors center to see what we could see.

'If the volcano erupts, run - then drive - as fast as you can.  Thanks - The Management'

The weather was cloudy with a misty rain falling.  There was a steady wind blowing that grew stronger as we walked the few hundred meters down the jungle lined path to the crater, the foliage providing a wind break for us.  

We detected that familiar volcanic sulfur smell and crossed our fingers.  Once we got to the viewpoint, we approached the railing and… and… and… clouds.  

Awww...

Drats.  The wind was much stronger here in the open, away from the trees, so we zipped up our jackets and made the call to wait it out.  We were encouraged by the wind that kept the clouds in constant motion, like a fan blowing curtains to and fro, allowing glimpses of what was behind.

What happened next was either Mother Nature playing nice or it was caused by the appearance of Gina and Dave.  As soon as they walked up and stepped to the rail, the wind picked up, swirled left and then right.  and like a curtain being drawn aside for a grand theatrical performance, the clouds swept away for a few minutes, allowing us a view of the crater below.

Thar be the Portal to Hell!

It was like Dave was channeling Mickey Mouse in 'The Sorcerer's Apprentice', with him immediately jumping on the opportunity to take credit for making it happen.   Smart dude.  You can see just how desolate the landscape is inside the crater.  The volcanic gasses bubbling up out of the water and fumes/steam billowing out are the source of that wonderful sulfuric odor.  It was truly awe-inspiring.

There is another crater, this one extinct, that is now a beautiful laguna.  There is a mirador (viewpoint) here, so we hiked up the trail.  The jungle is forever trying to take back the trails,  growing over the path, which makes it dark and spooky, the trees seemingly alive like in a Tim Burton cartoon or something out of Pan's Labyrinth.  

Do you believe in fauns and faeries?

Alas, the clouds had the laguna socked in, too.  The air was calm up here, perhaps blocked by the rain forest, so the clouds never parted.  Dave waved his arms maniacally to no avail.  The active crater was the primary objective, however, so our day was a huge success!  We walked back down the trail, with thoughts of checking the burbling crater for views one more time. 

This little guy stalked us most of the way down the trail, scampering ahead, then waiting.  Pretty sure he was hoping we would drop something edible!

The trip back to the crater's edge was for nought.  Too many clouds.  And without Dave to clear them, well…  

Oh, and since we couldn't see the laguna, we thought we'd pass off this representation:

No, really!  This is the laguna.  Honest!

Walking back to the car, we stopped to enjoy some of the amazing flora here…

THIS is the sombrilla de pobre (poor man's umbrella) - it's huge!

Later that day we went for lunch at Restaurante Colbert, the French place we dined at on our prior trip.  The drive there was delayed due to noon rush hour traffic, however.

Odd… all those horns yet no honking.  Huh.

The webpage for Colbert's is in Spanish but there are pics.  Plus you can peruse the menu, which is in French/Spanish/English.  Just like our experience before, it was a little surreal - two people from the US, who live in Nicaragua, enjoying authentic French food at a restaurant located on the slopes of an active volcano in Costa Rica.  

We got stuffed again with dinner at the lodge - Stephan knows no limits for portions (which is why I love him).  We again sat around the fire, each of us sharing what we'd done that day, Stephan sharing his bourbon.  Dave and Gina were leaving the next day and Stephan was taking them to the airport extremely early in the morning.  So, of course, we tried to make sure they all had plenty to drink.  Beer, bourbon - and gin and tonics for Bex!.  Actually, we ALL had plenty to drink!  We got the scoop from Gertie and Don about all the houses they had seen that day.  They had high hopes for a place or two.  It was a fun way to unwind after the day, with friends and a fire.

With Volcán Poás checked off the list, full bellies and a decent buzz it was time for bed!  We had more adventures planned for the next day!!