El Castillo. Seriously, we made it to the dock just minutes before the boat headed downriver. Perfect!
Ceci n'est pas our boat - but ours was very similar. |
What's that? I thought we were in the middle of the wild and wooly jungle. |
But it only works with cooperation between the two countries and there is a long history of bad blood. Hell, the exact position of the border itself along the Rio San Juan is constantly in question. Time will tell. If and when the bridge is put into use, it may just replace one of the coolest border crossings ever, a border crossing that we would be making in a few days. More on that later.
As we made our way down the wide slow Rio San Juan, we realized that these boats are just like the one we took to the Solentinames, in that they stop anywhere. On several occasions, we would cut toward shore, gently nose right up to the bank at some random point and pick up more passengers or drop people off. The pilot is very good, too. He nudges the boat right up close and the people moving on/off barely have their feet clear before he reverses the boat to continue on our journey.
Ten hut! Another boat stopped at this Nicaraguan military dock. |
The boat made an official stop in the small town of Boca de Sabalos. Man, this place looked cool! Our boat left the Rio San Juan, just barely, heading up the Rio Sabalos no more than 50-75 meters to get to the municipal dock. Again, if we only had more time, we would have loved to stay here a night or two to explore. Situated where the Rio Sabalos enters the Rio San Juan (boca means 'mouth') this bustling little place looked very interesting. Just like at the dock in San Carlos, there was military presence here, too. The soldier asked the pilot about us - we could tell because he gestured and looked right at us. Just wanted to know where we were from. It must be my honest face because there was no delay and we were soon leaving. Good thing they didn't check the wife's passport. (ahem)
Cruisin' río-style |
As we continued downriver, the river narrowed a little and the water was moving a little quicker. A short time later we arrived in El Castillo.
One if by land, two if by sea. How many if by river? |
With no roads, getting around town was difficult - NOT! There are nice stone-paved pathways all over town. The one that runs parallel to the river is wide enough for a horse drawn cart and the side paths are spacious, as well. Again, we were visiting during the slow season, so we had many invitations from anxious and excited staff at the hotels, restaurants, bars to come in and enjoy. We continued to explore until we were plenty hungry. Bex! still wasn't feeling 100% but she was also in need of food, as was I.
We ended up eating at Lara's Planet, which is the restaurant at the hotel of the same name. The place looked pretty new and polished. It has solar panels on the roof, beautiful tiled floors and a lot of bamboo in the decor - railings, furniture, trim work. Pretty awesome place, overlooking the river.
A 'panga', typical transportation in all the river communities. |
With no roads in the area, we're not sure where this truck was headed. |
Cosmopolitan food in a sleepy river town. |
It was dinner time but Bex! still wasn't feeling well. She was a trooper - two boat rides, lots of walking and, darn it, trying really hard to feel better just took it out of her. It had been a long day. So I wandered out to find some food while she napped. When we first arrived, as we got off the boat that brought us to town, the proprietor of a cool looking little bar with a great location and great music playing from the boom box had called to us to visit his establishment. I had made note of this and so I headed straight there to have a few beers, some food and chat with the locals. Mingling, having fun and making new friends is something I excel at thankyouverymuch even with my limited Spanish. Hell, maybe because of my limited Spanish! I'm not afraid to try and locals appreciate that, actually.
I walked in and the place looked dead. I found the owner sleeping in a rocking chair. He woke up and seated me. I ordered a beer to start and he said 'Lo siento, pero no tengo cerveza.' 'En serio?!' 'Si.' Hmmm… no beer, no other customers to chat with. I said good night, walked around a little, then ended up back at our hotel. The ground floor of the hotel is home to Restaurante Vanesa, so I ate there. I had a decent chicken dinner and a couple of beers as I watched boats navigate the river, in the dark with no lights. Pretty amazing considering the rapids they were cutting through.
A river boat lining up to approach the rapids on the far side of the river. |
Please keep your hands and feet inside the ride at all times. |
Safely on the way to the Caribbean |
As we finished up breakfast the next morning, we saw our Israeli friends, Joseph and Eran. We called them over and they joined us to have coffee. We each shared our adventures since we'd last met up in San Carlos. They were heading all the way downriver to the Caribbean and were trying to figure out which boat would take them. Our server told them there was one leaving, um, now so they hurried off! It was great seeing them again! Joseph owes me ice cream, though.
We walked down through the other area of town, a section we had not explored the previous day. More hotels, some restaurant potential for later - and Nene's Tours. One of the things on our to do list while in town was to ride the Raudal de Diablos - the Devil's Rapids. The very rapids that run through town and past our hotel, in fact. We stopped in Nene's to inquire about the possibility of doing the trip this afternoon. The proprietor stepped out on the porch, yelled across the way to a young man to see if he could take us later. The guy, Ernesto, told us to wait a sec. Then he walked over to check the river. It must have been okay because he said yes and we arranged a time to meet him.
Perhaps a short prayer before hitting the river? |
As I mentioned before, the Spanish chose this very spot on the river because of the rapids. Invading British and pirate ships had to unload downriver and very slowly navigate their ships through the rapids, with people pulling ropes from shore. A perfect spot for a fort with lots of cannons. It wasn't foolproof, however. The fort itself was taken a time or two. So, yes, there is much history here. We paid the small fee to enter the grounds and visited the tiny museum. They had many of the original cannons on display as well as a chronological history of the town and the fort. It was extremely interesting and a good way to work on our Spanish, as we read the posters.
You want me to use this little tiny cannon ball to hit that little tiny ship? |
Wait, I thought the British came from that-a-way?!? |
Rampa de accesa |
"Hi, welcome to Taco Bell. Can I take your order?" |
Great views! Shaggy monster! |
A view through one of the many rifle ports |
Bex! must be feeling better - she found the room where the soldiers stored their food! |
Views up and down river - perfect for spotting marauding British ships |
Booby and Beauregard Honeysuckle Hedgehog III - travel buds! |
And the other travel buds. Man, do I need a haircut! |
You say school, I say escuela |
Haircuts, photocopies, and video games - a |
Pre-cut mug shots |
First under the axe - the burns. |
Now, a little off the top, please. |
Post-cut mug shots. |
Gracias, amigo! |
After a stop back at the room, it was rafting time. We didn't really know what to expect. Ernesto was waiting for us. On the porch at Nene's was our watercraft - a raft that looked maybe a little too small. Hand made paddles, cut from planks, and - thankfully - real honest-to-goodness life jackets. As stated, the rapids run right through town. So we walked along the main path upriver to the municipal dock (the one we had arrived at the previous day), and put in there. We got plenty of looks walking through town. We half-expected to see locals lined up along shore to watch the crazy gringos.
(ring ring) "Hello? "Did you hear the news?! Some gringos are actually going rafting!" "No way! Seriously?" "Yes! Hurry! They just went by my place on the way to the dock!" "Okay, okay. I'm on the way!" "Bring beer!"
Our guide, our raft, Bex! with one of the homemade paddles heading to the dock for the first of five runs. This is the 'main street', by the way. |
Ernesto is doing all the work, obviously. |
Then we paddled out toward the middle and let the current take us from there. We ended up making five runs in an hour - cruising through the Raudal de Diablo, making for the bank, walking back up through town to the stares of the locals, launching from the dock, paddling up river to get a good angle and then doing it over again. Ernesto was great, increasing the excitement level each time until the 4th and 5th runs were right through the heart of the big stuff. It was fantastic fun and it cost all of $15. We tipped Ernesto on top of that and walked away with big smiles.
We were getting tossed pretty good while snapping pics, so I left this picture cock-eyed rather than leveled out. That would be cheating! |
Back at the hotel, we enjoyed the rest of the evening on the deck, visiting with some other tourists and listening to the rapids below. One of the staff asked Bex! to translate between her and a young man who was traveling with his mother. They were from the US (or maybe Canada?) and were trying to make arrangements for an extended stay after a brief excursion downriver. Anyway, they didn't speak Sapnish. And Bex! does! She rawks.
We slept well that night, after a big day, a great meal and a few beer cocktails. The next morning, we ate breakfast and caught the morning rapida back upriver. The river was clogged with floating debris, mostly wood and logs of various sizes, from El Castillo to Boca de Sabalos. We're guessing the big rains washed this stuff down river.
River monster! |
But for now, our border run adventure would take us to…
[continued in Adventuras Acuáticas: Capitulo Tres]
Ike has managed to single-handedly popularize micheladas (no tomato juice) at the Golden Dynasty and a couple of other Portland watering holes. Friends and acquaintances who now order the beverage just ask for an "Ike beer" :-)
ReplyDeleteThat's awesome. Go, Ike! And I'm glad to think we'll be able to order one in Portland.
DeleteSounds like a fun place with just the right balance of low key and a little more adventurous things to do. Wish you could have filmed more of the rapids. Want you guys to make us a micheladas when you get home. hope all is well. Pat
ReplyDelete