Rio Istian - Two Trips, One Post

We've made two trips to the Rio Istian, which is sort of a river that winds through the isthmus that connects the two volcanos.  I say 'sort of' because it's really a swampy lowland that looks like a river, which you'll notice in the pictures.  During the summer season, which is just starting, the 'river' dries up almost completely.  Then it's just a bog and mosquito factory.

Livingstone has nothing on us.

This area is very popular with tourists, with many of the hotels and hostels offering guided tours.  You don't really need a guide to do this trip but if you're interested in learning the names of the flora and fauna, then paying the $16 is well worth it.  Besides, if you want to see one of the rare and elusive caimans, the locals have an uncanny knack for spotting them.  

On our first trip over, we left HM later in the morning and by the time we got to the swamps, there had been 2-3 groups in ahead of us.  Some people 'cheat', too, by being delivered to the mouth of the rio by a motorboat, kayaks in tow.  That was what we saw as we approached the mouth our first time.  While the motorboats don't enter the swamps, I'm sure the sound disturbs the wildlife somewhat.

Our second trip over, we left early and were the first ones in.  In fact, we didn't see anyone else until we were on the open water about halfway back to HM.  We saw a group kayaking over, waved, and felt fortunate to have been there early.  Being the only ones on the water, gliding through the low hanging tree branches is such a great experience.

I've mentioned a local named Michael a couple of times.  He is a student in our adult class, a guide at Hacienda Merida, and he also helps on his family farm and in his mom's restaurant, El Pescadito's.  In addition to all of this, he teaches English to eager students in San Ramon, a village about 4k from here.  Plus, he's a new father!  Where he found time for that, I don't know!  Oh, and he can stand up in a kayak and paddle.  Just sayin'...

Our own personal superman.  Er, supermen.

We've hired Michael both times we've gone to the swamps - the first time it was just the three of us; the second trip was with Mary, a fellow volunteer here at HM.  It takes about an hour to kayak from HM to the entrance of the Rio Istian. 

Michael working hard, me taking pictures!

Volcán Concepción and Bex!

The first trip over we took the triple-seat kayak - one long craft with three seats.  Bex! sat up front, I took the middle and Michael steered in the back.  The second trip, we took doubles, with Michael and Mary in one, us in the other.  It was amazing how much better we did kayaking together when we were seated in the appropriate spots in the kayak!  No paddle whacking!  Yuri would be proud.

The wind was blowing quite a bit for Trip Two, so we fought a headwind all the way over and, strangely enough, on the way back, as well.  We found our double kayak zigging and zagging quite a bit, due to both our (lack of) paddling technique and the strong winds.  It was difficult to maintain a straight line.

When you enter the swamps, you're transported to a different environment.  It gets very quiet, the air is still and you can hear all the birds.  We saw a wide variety of them - all different shapes, sizes, colors.  Herons, egrets, ducks, bug eaters, fish eaters.  We saw turtles, too, sunning themselves on tree branches.  Although we heard monkeys, we never saw any.  We've seen a lot of egrets and herons back home, but we didn't recall seeing them in trees; instead, almost always flying or perched on something low and near the water.  Here, these guys hang out way up in the trees!

"It's Chirstmas and I'm the tree topper."

We were able to glide right up to this guy.  He just stood there, watching us.  We got within a couple of meters.  He stood about three feet tall or so.  Very cool!

This ghostly aura seems to indicate the stillness might have been deadness.

We tried to get close to this one but he took off as we approached.  I wasn't sure I got the picture until I checked the camera later.  As graceful in flight as they appear, they have very  inelegant and funny voices, like an attractive person with an unattractive laugh!  

And the Russian judge awards a perfect 10 for style.

Some of the trees here grow right out of the water.  The roots are above ground and extend down below the water.  Pretty cool looking.

Anyone else reminded of Bartholomew Cubbins?

Of course, the prize animal to spot in the swamps is the caiman.  We saw one each time.  Michael told us there are only 15 or so here, and they make themselves scarce when people come through.  We felt lucky to see them!  This first pic is from the first trip.  He was back in off the water a bit, so I zoomed in and was able to catch this shot.  He looked to be 4+ feet in length.

See you later, alligator!

On our second trip, we saw what Michael said was probably the grandaddy of the caimans.  He was up on a bank in the grass, soaking up the morning sun.  He was pretty big around the middle and was 6+ feet, easy.  You can see his head on the right and see his right back leg behind the leaf.

After a while, crocodile!

These trips on the water were a lot of fun and provided a much-needed break from our work at the school.  It's always nice to get away for a while.

Now, where are those caimans?  'Here, caiman, caiman, caiman!'

Gringo toe snack?